Article:

The globalization process has led to universalness and sameness, but at the same time an increased appreciation of difference.1 The display of specific identities has become necessary to be visible in the universalness. They express our self-conception, but also how we want to be regarded by others. It reflects our ambitions towards the outside world both at a personal and social level. As potential tools for displaying these identities, local cultural traditions have increased in importance. They have become necessary ingredients in the societal communication process.2 The situation has enhanced the significance of personal adornment. With its symbolic function, jewelry constitutes an exceptionally powerful way of expressing them. The market for such items is flourishing. In Norway the habit of wearing jewelry based on rural traditions constitutes a continuous tradition, which is even stronger than in the other Scandinavian countries.3 In the era of globalization it has increased, and the demand for such objects is substantial. The various professional groups within the designer community have responded according to their internal aesthetic preferences, which are not always congruent with those of the surrounding society. This has caused a discrepancy between demand and innovative design.4 The paper consists of an investigation of the historical background for this, seen at the backdrop of the situation in two widely different countries, India and Italy, where societal and market oriented innovation is playing a major role.